14
Sep
2011

How to outwit and outmaneuver Large Garden Pests


By admin

Deer, Rabbits and Squirrels are a constant problem to gardeners.  There are repellants such as a Critter Ridder that can be sprinkled around tasty plants.  Planting resistant plant materials is an option but if the animal is starving, it may even eat the plants they ‘supposedly’ don’t like. When planting bulbs, place chicken wire over them prior to filling in the hole and water well.  Inter-planting with daffodils or Imperial Fritillarias will deter squirrels because of the toxicity of the daffodils or from the smell of the Fritillarias. Blood meal also keeps the pests away due to its odour.

Rabbits are a different matter, when planting a garden for the summer you can try those rabbit-resistant plants like marigolds, geraniums, rosemary, sage or oregano. If those plants fail to keep them out, tall wire-mesh fences are the last resort, and to save your tasty shrubs over the winter months, wire-mesh around an upside-down tomato cage or obelisk might be your only answer.

These large garden pests can be cute but costly, crocus and tulips make great squirrel food but a very expensive way to feed them.  When in doubt plant Daffodils, they do come in various shade of white, yellow and orange or even miniature, but the toxins in the bulb and flower will keep all the pests from having a feast on your fall bulb plantings as well as keep them from harvesting your outstanding spring blooms!


29
Apr
2011

Lawns


By admin

It is that time of year again when we all start thinking about our lawns.  In the Spring, we all start out with the best intentions of having the nicest lawn in the neighborhood.  The television advertisements and articles in gardening magazines get us inspired to get out there and make our lawns all they can be.  That becomes especially difficult when we have a Spring season like the one we are having this year.  That being said, the nicer weather will get here eventually and you want to be ready when it does.  I have compiled some tips on improving existing lawns and tips on brand new lawn installations.

Whether you are seeding a new lawn or over seeding an existing lawn, the principles are the same.  The most important step is to make sure the seed makes contact with loose soil that has been enriched with a seed starter fertilizer.  For brand new installations, ensure the area has been worked to ensure a fine seedbed and all foreign material like roots and rocks are removed.  Next, apply a starter fertilizer to help the seed develop faster and grow into a thicker, healthier lawn.  Apply your lawn seed with a spreader.  Spreading by hand is not recommended as it s difficult to achieve even coverage.  A tip to ensure even coverage is to divide your seed into two equal amounts and apply half in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction.  After applying the seed, lightly rake the soil surface to ensure good seed to soil contact.  Be careful not to burry the seed too deep as it may fail to emerge.  A planting depth of 2 millimeters is ideal.  Keep the seeded area moist by frequent, light watering until the seed is established.  Overwatering can affect the germination of grass seed.  Seed germinates best when the soil temperature is above 17 degrees Celsius (62 degrees Fahrenheit).  Once your lawn is established, it is important to remember to feed it regularly with a lawn fertilizer.  Three to four feedings per year is recommended to keep your lawn healthy.  A good healthy thick lawn not only looks great, but it also aids in weed and insect control.

 

If you are over seeding an existing lawn, make sure you give the lawn a good vigorous raking in order to remove any thatch and loosen the soil that the seed will come into contact with.  Follow the same steps listed above for fertilizing and seeding.  Be sure to use an over seeding mixture of grass seed.  This should be comprised of a mixture of annual and perennial rye grass.  Once the seed and fertilizer have been applied, top dress the lawn with black loam.  Again, try to avoid applying the soil too thick.  This will stop the grass from emerging and could damage the existing lawn.  Follow up by raking areas where this may have occurred.  Again, the steps for watering and feeding mentioned earlier should be followed.

Finally, you have the option of sodding your lawn.  This method is more expensive, but you get instant lawn when you are done.  Again, you need to prepare the area where you will lay the sod.  The same starter fertilizer is applied before you lay the sod.  It is important to get the sod laid as soon as possible after purchase.  Leaving sod rolled up is extremely harmful to the grass, especially in the center of the roll.  If you have to store the sod for a length of time, it is recommended that you unroll it to prevent these types of problems.  Once the sod is laid, water immediately and water often until the sod is established.  To fill in the seams between rolls that may be exposed, follow up with grass seed in these areas.  Again, feed your new sod on a regular basis, especially during the first year.

For further tips or advice, stop in and talk to one of our lawn experts in the garden centre.

 


29
Apr
2011

Native Plants


By admin

Back to ‘Native’ as well as nature is a good way to reduce your carbon footprint.  Native plants are the ones that were found in this area long before the horticultural industry started cultivating ‘new’ plants.

Native plants often aren’t as ‘flashy’ or ‘unique’ as their newer relatives but they do grow well here because it is where their roots originated.

The Trillium is a native plant and the official flower of Ontario.  The idea that it is illegal to grow them is untrue.  Ideally purchasing them from a grower who is cultivating the bulbs for re-sale is preferred to digging them up in the wild so one can have them in the garden.  These flowers prefer a forest/shaded location for growth.  In the native setting, the organic matter (decaying leaves and branches) as well as an abundance of moisture available in the spring is ideal for Trilliums and other native plants.  This recipe must be duplicated in the home garden in order for these plants to flourish.  The Trillium is a great plant to enjoy in the spring, but like other woodland plants, once the heat of the summer arrives their growing season is done and they disappear into the ground until the next spring.

There are many native plants that were removed from the ‘Best Seller List’ because they didn’t have showy enough flowers, were susceptible to disease or were considered weeds when the newer ‘Cultivated’ cousins came along.  The trend to go ‘Native’ is popular in spite of the few downfalls some (not all) native plants exhibit.

The native plants at Ridgeview Garden Centre have been chosen because they have good characteristics and have often been overlooked for the landscape but are truly worth planting in the garden. If you are interested in other native plants, please stop in or call Ridgeview and we can often give you information about your choice, whether it is available and where it will grow best in the garden situation.

 

 

 


21
Apr
2011

Small Spaces need Small Plants


By admin


Small spaces require small plants, this includes trees.  The horticultural industry has been providing ‘standard’ trees for many years for just this purpose.  Standard trees are plants that are grafted on a rootstock, this allows that small plant on the ground to be raised 2-5′ off the ground.  Many plants have been made into standard trees. Junipers, euonymus, lilacs, japanese maples, cypress, spruce, willows, viburnums; the list is endless.

In Ridgeview’s flyer this week we have a special on the Dwarf Hinoki Cypress Standard (Std).  The dwarf hinoki cypress is a 2-3′ unique plant, with bright green cupped leaves, it is an evergreen, slow growing and prefers full sun.  This plant has been grafted onto a root stock that is 2-3′ tall.  The rootstock does not get any taller only the plant (the dwarf hinoki cypress) will grow to it’s mature size on top of the rootstock.  Sounds like an outrageous concept but it works!!

So the main considerations for choosing a particular Standard Tree are: height (remembering that the height of the rootstock remains the same and the plant grafted on top is the only part that makes the tree taller), deciduous or evergreen, sun or shade, flowers, fall colour, space available, shape – weeping or tree-like.

Ridgeview Garden Centre has many of the grafted trees the industry provides.  For full sun: Globe Blue Spruce Std, Juniper Std, Dwarf Korean Lilac Std, Euonymus Std, Pussy willow Std, Black Willow Std, Japanese Willow Std, White Pine Std, Rose Std, Weeping Mulberry Std, Weeping Peashrub Std.

For shade and partial shade: Hydrangea Std, Viburnum Std, Euonymus Std, Japanese Maple Std, Burning Bush Std.

If you are looking for a particular Standard tree that is not listed here, call us at Ridgeview 905-945-1713 and ask us, we may be able to find what your looking for.